One of the Most Significant Advances in Regenerative Aesthetic Medicine
Polynucleotides are one of the most genuinely interesting developments in aesthetic medicine in recent years. Rather than masking the signs of ageing or adding volume where it has been lost, polynucleotides work at a cellular level to help your skin repair and regenerate itself. For patients who are looking for something more considered than a filler and more transformative than a hydrating facial, they represent a real step forward.
At Dr Azoo’s clinic in Ealing, polynucleotide treatments using the Mastelli range (Plinest, Plinest Eye, and Newest) are offered as part of a carefully considered treatment plan, tailored to each patient. This guide explains what polynucleotides are, how they work, what they can realistically treat, and what to expect from a course of Plinest treatment in the UK.
What Are Polynucleotides?
Polynucleotides are highly purified chains of DNA fragments, most commonly derived from salmon. The idea of injecting DNA into the skin sounds unusual at first, but the logic is simple: the building blocks of salmon DNA are biologically very similar to human DNA, and when introduced into the skin they act as a powerful signalling mechanism. They encourage the body’s own skin cells, particularly fibroblasts, to behave younger and produce more of the proteins that give skin its structure and resilience.
Polynucleotides are sometimes abbreviated to PN or PDRN. They are classified as a regenerative treatment, which places them in a different category to dermal fillers (which add volume), Botox (which relaxes muscle activity), or Profhilo (which primarily hydrates and stimulates structural proteins across a broader area).
What Is Plinest, and How Does It Fit Into the Polynucleotide Family?
Plinest is one of the most established polynucleotide products on the market, manufactured by the Italian company Mastelli. The range offered at Dr Azoo’s clinic includes three distinct products, each designed for a specific use:
Plinest. The core product in the range, formulated for general facial skin rejuvenation. It is typically used across the face to improve skin quality, firmness, fine lines, and overall tone.
Plinest Eye. A specialist formulation designed for the delicate tissue around the eyes. It is particularly useful for undereye hollowing, dark circles, fine lines, and the crepey texture that often appears in this area with age.
Newest. A higher-concentration polynucleotide product used for more advanced regenerative work, including more significant skin laxity, tissue repair, and acne scarring.
Choosing the right product, or the right combination, is part of what a qualified doctor’s consultation is for. It is not a case of one product suiting every patient, and nor should it be presented that way.
How Do Polynucleotides Actually Work?
Once injected into the skin, polynucleotides do several things simultaneously:
They activate fibroblasts. Fibroblasts are the cells responsible for producing collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. As we age, fibroblast activity slows down considerably. Polynucleotides encourage these cells to resume more youthful levels of activity.
They reduce inflammation. Polynucleotides have well-documented anti-inflammatory effects. This matters because low-grade chronic inflammation is a significant driver of visible skin ageing and is implicated in conditions such as melasma, rosacea, and post-acne pigmentation.
They improve tissue oxygenation and hydration. The treatment supports healthier local circulation and helps the skin retain moisture more effectively.
They support tissue repair. In areas of damaged or thinning skin, polynucleotides have a genuinely regenerative effect rather than simply a cosmetic one.
The result, when treatment is performed correctly and suited to the patient, is skin that genuinely looks and behaves healthier. Not smoothed over, not filled out, not frozen, but healthier.
What Concerns Can Polynucleotides Address?
Polynucleotides are particularly well-suited to addressing:
- Fine lines and early signs of ageing
- Loss of skin firmness and elasticity
- Dull, tired, or dehydrated-looking skin
- Undereye hollowing, dark circles, and fine lines in the periorbital area
- Textural concerns including enlarged pores and uneven tone
- Acne scarring and post-inflammatory skin changes
- Thinning skin on the neck, décolletage, and backs of the hands
They are not typically the right choice for patients seeking significant volume restoration (where dermal fillers are more appropriate) or those wanting to address dynamic wrinkles caused by muscle movement (where Botox is the more sensible option). Many patients benefit from a combination of treatments, and that is always discussed openly during consultation.
What Does a Plinest Treatment Plan Typically Involve?
A full course of polynucleotide treatment typically involves three sessions, spaced two to four weeks apart. The exact protocol depends on which product is being used, which concerns are being addressed, and how your skin responds to the first session.
The treatment itself involves a series of small injections into the skin at carefully selected points, using a very fine needle or cannula. Topical anaesthetic cream is applied beforehand to keep the experience comfortable. Each session usually takes around 30 to 45 minutes, including preparation.
The injection technique is important. Unlike dermal fillers, polynucleotides are not placed in a specific shape or contour; they are distributed through the skin tissue to stimulate regeneration over an area. The precise points and depth depend on the product and the area being treated. At Dr Azoo’s clinic, each treatment plan is tailored, and the injection approach is selected based on clinical assessment rather than a one-size-fits-all protocol.
Results begin to appear gradually over the weeks following your second session, with the full benefit typically becoming visible about a month after the third treatment. Improvements continue to develop for several weeks after that, and the regenerative effect typically lasts six to nine months. Many patients choose to have a maintenance session every six months to preserve the improvement.
Are Polynucleotides Safe? What About Side Effects and Downtime?
Polynucleotides have a strong safety profile when administered by a qualified medical practitioner using a regulated product. The purification processes used in professional products such as Plinest are very thorough, and allergic reactions are rare.
The most common side effects are mild and short-lived:
- Some redness and swelling at the injection points, usually settling within 24 to 48 hours
- Small bumps at the injection sites, which typically resolve within a few hours
- Occasional light bruising, more likely in the delicate undereye area
Downtime is generally minimal. Most patients feel confident returning to normal social activities the following day, though it is always sensible to avoid strenuous exercise, alcohol, saunas, and direct sun exposure for 24 to 48 hours after treatment.
More significant complications are rare, but as with any injectable treatment they are not impossible. That is why choosing a medically qualified practitioner matters. For a fuller discussion of what to consider and how a competent doctor minimises the risks of injectables, our article on dermal filler risks sets out the principles that apply equally to polynucleotide treatment.
Polynucleotides, Profhilo, or Dermal Fillers: Which Is Right for You?
This is one of the most common questions at consultation, and there is no universally correct answer. The three treatments do genuinely different things:
Polynucleotides regenerate skin at a cellular level. They are the best option for patients wanting to improve skin quality, texture, and resilience, particularly in the undereye area and where there is some early laxity or thinning.
Profhilo hydrates and stimulates collagen across a wider area of the face. It is particularly effective where skin has lost its bounce and hydration but still has reasonable structure.
Dermal fillers restore lost volume and can reshape specific features such as cheeks, lips, or the jawline. They are not a skin quality treatment.
Many patients benefit from a combination. Polynucleotides followed by Profhilo, or polynucleotides alongside carefully placed fillers, can produce more complete and natural-looking results than any single treatment alone. For a more detailed comparison between Profhilo and polynucleotides specifically, you may find our dedicated guide useful.
Who Is Polynucleotide Treatment Most Suited To?
Polynucleotides suit patients who are looking for genuine, gradual improvement in skin quality rather than an immediate cosmetic change. They work particularly well for:
- Patients in their thirties onwards experiencing early signs of skin ageing
- Those with undereye concerns who are not ready for, or suited to, filler in that area
- Patients wanting to address post-inflammatory changes after acne
- Those wanting to support and enhance results from other aesthetic treatments
- Patients who prefer regenerative, subtle treatments over more obvious interventions
They are not typically offered to patients who are pregnant or breastfeeding, have active infections at the injection site, have certain autoimmune conditions, or have a known allergy to any of the product’s components.
Why Patients Choose Dr Azoo’s Ealing Clinic for Polynucleotide Treatment
Dr Louay Azoo is a GMC-registered medical doctor and member of the Royal College of Psychiatrists. His dual qualification in aesthetic and psychological medicine shapes the way every consultation is conducted at this clinic. Patients are assessed as whole people, not as candidates for a specific treatment, and the honest answer is sometimes that polynucleotides are not the right option, or that they should be combined with another treatment, or that the patient should wait before proceeding.
Every consultation and every treatment at this clinic is carried out personally by Dr Azoo. Treatment plans are built around the individual patient, and the priority is always what will genuinely serve their wellbeing, including their psychological wellbeing. That priority is formalised through Dr Azoo’s CPD-accredited training on Psychology in Aesthetics with Wigmore Medical, delivered to other practitioners across the UK.
If you would like to discuss whether polynucleotide treatment is right for you, contact Dr Azoo’s Ealing clinic on 07400 325 315 or at contact@drazoo.com. By appointment only, Monday to Saturday.